(Mid-arm Quilting Machines)
1) Use
the correct type and size needle as suggested by your machine manual.
There are two common needle types for mid-arm machines.
134
(May
also be known as a DP x 5, 135 x 5, 135 x 7, DP x 7, 1901). Available in sizes 10,11,12,14,16,18,19,20,21,22,23,24. This needle is also available as a S134 (stretch / SES). A
stretch needle (ball point) will allow you to stitch on knits, silks and satin without damage to the fabric. Available in sizes 10,11,12,14,16,18.
134MR The 134 MR (Multi Range also known
as SAN, (Special Application Needle) was created specifically for high speed
multidirectional sewing such as longarm quilting machines. (May
also be known as a DP x 5MR, 135 x 5MR, 135 x 7MR, DP x 7MR, 1901MR).
Available in sizes 10,11,14,16,18,19,21,22. This needle is also available as 134MR FFG (modified ball point) as well as 134MR R (rounded
sharp). Available in sizes 10,11,14,16,18,19,21,22
Both
may be used on woven fabric as well as delicate fabric such as knits, silks or
satin.
The
134MR needle has a different shaped eye, blade and a deeper more extended scarf
than the standard 134 needle.
Your machine manual will
include a recommendation as to needle type and size range. For
instance, my Handi Quilter Sweet 16 recommends needle type 134
with a size range of 12 to 20. If in doubt contact your machine dealer.
2)
Choose
your needle size according to the weight (thickness) of thread you will be
using. (Top)
An easy way to test that
your needle is large enough is to thread a loose needle onto your chosen
thread. Hold the cut end of the thread in one hand and hold onto the thread close
to the spool with your other hand leaving around 12 to 14 inches of thread in between. With
your needle closest to the cut end of the thread, raise your hand so that the
thread forms a vertical line. The needle should drop smoothly to the bottom of
the thread. If it “hangs up” or bobs back and forth then the needle eye is too
small for the thread. Change to the next size up and test again.
Note* It is important to
test with the thread running in the direction that it will feed through the
machine. If you were to cut a piece of thread off the spool and test this way
you may try to “drop” the needle in the wrong direction. This will put it
against the twist in the thread causing a false result.
If you are using fine thread, (such as,100
weight silk, 100 weight polyester, 40 weight rayon,
monofilament etc) be sure to use a small needle.
The “drop test” is not
accurate with very fine thread as all mid-arm needles have a large enough eye for these threads however too large of an eye will cause the thread to bounce up and down in the
eye resulting in poor tension and thread breakage.
For these threads start with
the smallest size available for your machine, do a test stitch out and make
adjustments as required. Move up to a larger needle if your thread is shredding
or breaking.
Choose
your needle size according to the weight (thickness) of thread you will be
using. (Bottom)
There is a notch in the
needle, just above the eye and on the side opposite to the groove that runs the
length of the needle. This is called the scarf.
If you are using a heavy
thread in the bobbin (even if you have a lighter weight on top) than the scarf
has to be deep enough to accommodate the thick thread in order for the bobbin hook to grab
it and make a stitch. This is why you go “up a size” if you are getting skipped
stitches.
3)
Change
your needle often… A new needle for each project.
On average I change
my needle every eight to ten hours. More often if I am quilting batik or
metallic fabric.
4)
Be
sure that your needle is in correctly. (Check your machine manual for correct
needle placement.)
Needles with a round shaft can be tricky.
Look closely at your needle.
The top of a standard home sewing machine needle has a flat back
The top of your mid-arm needle is round.
Just above the point of the needle on the side opposite to the groove that runs the length of the needle there is a notch. This is called the scarf.
On my HQ Sweet 16 (forward facing Machine) the scarf must face the back
of the machine.
The long groove above the eye of the needle faces you as you insert the needle. Thinking of a circle around your needle with
the hours on the clock on it, the groove in the needle and eye should be at 6:00 O’
Clock.
Most front facing machines will have this same needle orientation.
Other machines, (usually the side
facing machines such as the Janome Artistic SD or Tin Lizzie), have the scarf
to the right and the long groove must be to your left. On these side facing machines it is
easiest to insert the needle correctly if you sit facing the end of the machine
where you change the bobbin.
Looking at the machine this way the needles groove and eye should be facing
you at 6:00.
Holding your needle in place
with a pin gently placed in the eye of the needle will help you guide the
needle into place with the eye in the correct position.
It
is important that the scarf and groove be in the correct position for your
machine to make a good quality stitch. When the needle enters the
fabric the bobbin hook comes around behind the needle to pick up the top
thread.
The scarf
must be in the correct position or you will get skipped stiches.
Make sure that the needle is inserted all the way.
After
changing the needle it is a good idea to turn your fly wheel manually one full
rotation to make sure that the needle does not hit the bobbin case.
5)Thread
your machine according to your user’s manual.
Be
sure that you hang onto the thread on either side of the tension disc and
“floss” it into place. If you are not fully into this disc you will have little
or no top tension.
6)
Tension
adjustments are made through both the top tension dial and the bobbin case.
ALWAYS
Start by adjusting the bobbin case. Remember the old adage …
Righty Tighty / Lefty Loosy !
Make tiny adjustments here.
The large screw with the Halo around it is the one you adjust.
Think of the halo as a clock
and make your adjustments in ¼ hour turns. Place the bobbin case with
the bobbin loaded in the palm of your hand. The bobbin should be
against your palm. Pull upwards on the thread. The bobbin should remain
inside the case and the case should stand upright. Pull upwards on the thread
and the bobbin and case should just barely lift off your palm. The
bobbin case should slide down on the thread like a spider spinning out a web. If the bobbin case just hangs
there then loosen the screw. If it won’t lift at all then
tighten the screw.
Note*
This adjustment
may be slightly looser if you are working with very delicate threads. For these
threads start with the adjustment of being able to lift the bobbin and case to
the upright position but not out of your hand.
Time
Saving Tip (For those who use many types and weights of thread) The most important tension adjustment for your machine is
to the bobbin case. Though you can easily adjust your
bobbin case for different weight threads I find it a huge time saver to own
more than one bobbin case. This is because
I quilt with a wide variety of threads from very light to very heavy. Minor adjustments are still made to account for individual threads and
thread combinations, changing weather conditions, needle size etc.
I keep one bobbin case for my
machine at an adjustment for 50 weight cotton (and other similar weight threads).
I have a second bobbin case adjusted for very
fine threads (such as 100 weight silk, mono-filament or polyester).
I have a third
(and final) bobbin case for doing bobbin quilting. This is a technique where thread (such as 8
weight rayon or perle cotton) that can not fit through the needle is wound on
your bobbin. The quilting is
then done with the right side of your quilt facing the table.
Once
your bobbin has been adjusted then adjust your top tension for a balanced
stitch.
For machines with a tension
lever, your thread should run freely when the lever is up and be too tight to
pull through when the lever is down.
My
HQ Sweet 16 has a hopping foot that has no lever to raise and lower it. As a result there is always tension on
the top thread.
For this type of machine, once
again think of a circle around the hopping foot with the hours of the clock on
it. I start my top tension
adjustment will a pull test towards 11:00. The thread should just pull
through the tension disc without breaking. (Many of the newer machines
have tension sensors that will give you a number setting to help with this
adjustment)
Do a test stitch out of the
pattern you will be quilting.
A balanced stitch will look
the same on the top and bottom.
You should be able to see
each stitch and the stitches should snug down into the batting without
puckering.
If you
have eyelashes (loose threads) on the bottom then tighten the top tension. If
you have eyelashes (loose threads) on the top then loosen the top tension.
To
tighten the top tension, turn your dial to the right. (Away from you on a forward facing machine or
clockwise on a side facing machine).
To loosen the tension, turn the dial to the
left,(Towards
you on a forward facing machine or counter clockwise on a side facing machine). I
adjust the dial in quarter turn increments until I am satisfied with the
stitching. Remember once again, Righty
Tighty / Lefty Loosy.
7) The Issue of Pin Pricking Little
dots of the top thread showing on the bottom of your quilt, (or the bottom thread showing on top) are called
Pin Pricking.
This is not a tension problem but
rather your mid arm machine making a good balanced stitch.
Pin Pricking is made more obvious
when we use different colored threads in the needle and bobbin.
As
machine quilters we can minimize the problem of pin pricking by changing the
balance of our machine tension to hide the pin pricking inside the batting,
using a thicker batting, using the same thread or thread color top and bottom, replacing
one or both of the threads with monofilament thread and using the smallest
needle possible for the top thread.
A
small needle will create a small hole. A small needle hole allows less of the top and
bottom thread to pass through to the other side and as a result will lessen the
amount of pin pricking.
8)Top and bottom thread can be different
providing their strength is similar.
Pairing natural fibre with natural fibre and man-made with man-made will
make it easier to adjust your tension especially when you are learning. Once
comfortable with your machine you can break this rule.
Many thread manufacturers have information available on their web sites
as to help you choose the best thread combinations,(top and bottom) and needle size.
9) Always do a test sample to check thread tensions
before you start and each time you change your bobbin or threading.
I use the same fabric, batting and
thread as my project and the design to be stitched when performing a tension
test on my machine.
10) Parcel the
weight of your quilt inward keeping as much of the quilt on the table as
possible.
This is the opposite of how we
handle a quilt on a standard bed machine and one of the nicest things about a mid-arm. Keeping the weight of the quilt up on the
table takes most of the stress off of our bodies.
11) Be sure to use the correct foot (as suggested by your machine manufacturer) when doing ruler work.
Use only rulers or templates that are made
for use on mid-arm quilting machines.
12) Be sure to oil your machine according to the
manufacturer instructions.
Not oiling your machine will cause
the machine to stitch poorly, become noisy and can cause damage to the machine.
Just like your car…..a well-oiled
machine is a "HAPPY" machine!
Some Common Issues and What to Look For
Breaking
threads can be caused by;
*Incorrect tension adjustment.
*Machine not threaded properly.
*The wrong needle size or type for
your chosen thread.
*Needle too small for the thread.
* Needle not in correctly.
*Moving hands too quickly or jerky
hand movement.
*Incorrect pairing of top and bottom
threads.
(One much stronger than the other.)
*Thread looped around spool pin.
*Burr on bobbin case or needle plate.
Skipped stitches can be caused by;
*Wrong size or dull needle.
*Hopping foot adjusted too high.
Poor
tension can be caused by;
*Top thread not in tension disc.
*Lint in top tension disc.
*Lint in tension disc of bobbin case.
*Machine not threaded properly.
*Side tension lever not down (side facing machines).
*Machine needs oiling.
*Faulty or dull needle.
*Needle not in correctly.
*Poor quality thread or wrong thread combination.
*A poorly wound bobbin.
HOT
TIP
If you have tried everything else…
If having a problem with skipped stitches, try turning your needle ever
so slightly from the 6:00 o’ clock position to 6:30.
If having a problem with shredded or breaking
thread, try turning the needle to 5:30
Needle
Size Conversion for Mid-Arm Machines Some manufacturers give the needle sizes in metric… this is what they
mean.
MR 2.0 = Nm 70 = Size 10
MR 2.5 = Nm 75 = Size 11
MR 3.0 = Nm 90 = Size 14
MR 3.5 = Nm 100 = Size 16
MR 4.0 = Nm 110 = Size 18
MR 5.0 = Nm 130 = Size 21
MR 6.0 = Nm 140 = Size 22
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at Julies Quilt Class and are intended for personal use only.
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