Sunday 31 January 2016

Quick Tips for Machine Quilting On Your Mid-Arm

 (Mid-arm Quilting Machines)


1) Use the correct type and size needle as suggested by your machine manual.
                   
There are two common needle types for mid-arm machines.        
             
134
(May also be known as a DP x 5, 135 x 5, 135 x 7, DP x 7, 1901).                                                                           Available in sizes 10,11,12,14,16,18,19,20,21,22,23,24.      This needle is also available as a S134 (stretch / SES).           A stretch needle (ball point) will allow you to stitch on knits, silks and satin without damage to the fabric.                       Available in sizes 10,11,12,14,16,18.    
                                                                    
134MR                                                                                        The 134 MR (Multi Range also known as SAN, (Special Application Needle) was created specifically for high speed multidirectional sewing such as longarm quilting machines.     (May also be known as a DP x 5MR, 135 x 5MR, 135 x 7MR, DP x 7MR, 1901MR).                                               
Available in sizes 10,11,14,16,18,19,21,22.                                This needle is also available as 134MR FFG (modified ball point) as well as 134MR R (rounded sharp).                 Available in sizes 10,11,14,16,18,19,21,22                        Both may be used on woven fabric as well as delicate fabric such as knits, silks or satin.       
                                         
The 134MR needle has a different shaped eye, blade and a deeper more extended scarf than the standard 134 needle.       

Your machine manual will include a recommendation as to needle type and size range.                                                   For instance, my Handi Quilter Sweet 16  recommends needle  type 134 with a size range of 12 to 20.                         If in doubt contact your machine dealer.


2)    Choose your needle size according to the weight (thickness) of thread you will be using. (Top)

An easy way to test that your needle is large enough is to thread a loose needle onto your chosen thread.                 Hold the cut end of the thread in one hand and hold onto the thread close to the spool with your other hand leaving around 12 to 14 inches of thread in between.                 With your needle closest to the cut end of the thread, raise your hand so that the thread forms a vertical line.     The needle should drop smoothly to the bottom of the thread.                                                                                  If it “hangs up” or bobs back and forth then the needle eye is too small for the thread.                                           Change to the next size up and test again. 

Note* It is important to test with the thread running in the direction that it will feed through the machine.                   If you were to cut a piece of thread off the spool and test this way you may try to “drop” the needle in the wrong direction. This will put it against the twist in the thread causing a false result.

If you are using fine thread, (such as,100 weight silk, 100 weight polyester, 40 weight rayon, monofilament etc) be sure to use a small needle.

The “drop test” is not accurate with very fine thread as all mid-arm needles have a large enough eye for these threads however too large of an eye will cause the thread to bounce up and down in the eye resulting in poor tension and thread breakage.
For these threads start with the smallest size available for your machine, do a test stitch out and make adjustments as required. Move up to a larger needle if your thread is shredding or breaking.

Choose your needle size according to the weight (thickness) of thread you will be using. (Bottom)

There is a notch in the needle, just above the eye and on the side opposite to the groove that runs the length of the needle. This is called the scarf.
If you are using a heavy thread in the bobbin (even if you have a lighter weight on top) than the scarf has to be deep enough to accommodate  the thick thread in order for the bobbin hook to grab it and make a stitch. This is why you go “up a size” if you are getting skipped stitches.

3)    Change your needle often…                                             A new needle for each project.                 
                     
On average I change my needle every eight to ten hours. More often if I am quilting batik or metallic fabric.  

4)    Be sure that your needle is in correctly.                         (Check your machine manual for correct needle placement.)

Needles with a round shaft can be tricky.
Look closely at your needle. 
The top of a standard home sewing machine needle has a flat back
The top of your mid-arm needle is round.
Just above the point of the needle on the side opposite to the groove that runs the length of the needle there is a notch. This is called the scarf. 

On my HQ Sweet 16 (forward facing Machine) the scarf must face the back of the machine.      

The long groove above the eye of the needle faces you as you insert the needle.                                                                                                                                                     Thinking of a circle around your needle with the hours on the clock on it, the groove in the needle and eye should be at 6:00 O’ Clock.   

Most front facing machines will have this same needle orientation.  
                                                                  
Other machines, (usually the side facing machines such as the Janome Artistic SD or Tin Lizzie), have the scarf to the right and the long groove must be to your left.                         On these side facing machines it is easiest to insert the needle correctly if you sit facing the end of the machine where you change the bobbin.  
Looking at the machine this way the needles groove and eye should be facing you at 6:00.        
                                             
Holding your needle in place with a pin gently placed in the eye of the needle will help you guide the needle into place with the eye in the correct position.                                          
It is important that the scarf and groove be in the correct position for your machine to make a good quality stitch.                                                                                               When the needle enters the fabric the bobbin hook comes around behind the needle to pick up the top thread.                                        
The scarf must be in the correct position or you will get skipped stiches.              
Make sure that the needle is inserted all the way.                           
After changing the needle it is a good idea to turn your fly wheel manually one full rotation to make sure that the needle does not hit the bobbin case.   

5)Thread your machine according to your user’s manual.   
                                                                                                Be sure that you hang onto the thread on either side of the tension disc and “floss” it into place.                                       If you are not fully into this disc you will have little or no top tension.   

 6)    Tension adjustments are made through both the top tension dial and the bobbin case.
ALWAYS Start by adjusting the bobbin case.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Remember the old adage … Righty Tighty / Lefty Loosy !                                             
Make tiny adjustments here.   
The large screw with the Halo around it is the one you adjust.                                                                            
Think of the halo as a clock and make your adjustments in ¼ hour turns.                                                                               Place the bobbin case with the bobbin loaded in the palm of your hand.                                                                               The bobbin should be against your palm.                                Pull upwards on the thread.                                                    The bobbin should remain inside the case and the case should stand upright.                                                             Pull upwards on the thread and the bobbin and case should just barely lift off your palm.                                                    The bobbin case should slide down on the thread like a spider spinning out a web.                                                      If the bobbin case just hangs there then loosen the screw.    If it won’t lift at all then tighten the screw.      

Note* 
This adjustment may be slightly looser if you are working with very delicate threads.                                                     For these threads start with the adjustment of being able to lift the bobbin and case to the upright position but not out of your hand.       


Time Saving Tip                                                               (For those who use many types and weights of thread)                                                                                                    The most important tension adjustment for your machine is to the bobbin case.                                                               Though you can easily adjust your bobbin case for different weight threads I find it a huge time saver to own more than one bobbin case.                                                                    This is because I quilt with a wide variety of threads from very light to very heavy.                                                          Minor adjustments are still made to account for individual threads and thread combinations, changing weather conditions, needle size etc.     
                              
 I keep one bobbin case for my machine at an adjustment for 50 weight cotton (and other similar weight threads).        
         
 I have a second bobbin case adjusted for very fine threads (such as 100 weight silk, mono-filament or polyester).       
                                                                                                I have a third (and final) bobbin case for doing bobbin quilting.                                                                               This is a technique where thread (such as 8 weight rayon or perle cotton) that can not fit through the needle is wound on your bobbin.                                                                         The quilting is then done with the right side of your quilt facing the table.  


Once your bobbin has been adjusted then adjust your top tension for a balanced stitch.   

For machines with a tension lever, your thread should run freely when the lever is up and be too tight to pull through when the lever is down.   

My HQ Sweet 16 has a hopping foot that has no lever to raise and lower it.                                                                    As a result there is always tension on the top thread.        
                                                                                               For this type of machine, once again think of a circle around the hopping foot with the  hours of the clock on it.                                                                                                                   I start my top tension adjustment will a pull test towards 11:00.                                                                                   The thread should just pull through the tension disc without breaking.                                                                             (Many of the newer machines have tension sensors that will give you a number setting to help with this adjustment)     
                                                                                                Do a test stitch out of the pattern you will be quilting.                                                        
A balanced stitch will look the same on the top and bottom.                                 
You should be able to see each stitch and the stitches should snug down into the batting without puckering.    
If you have eyelashes (loose threads) on the bottom then tighten the top tension.                                                             If you have eyelashes (loose threads) on the top then loosen the top tension.       
                                                                                              To tighten the top tension, turn your dial to the right. (Away from you on a forward facing machine or clockwise on a side facing machine).                                                                                                                                                                      To loosen the tension, turn the dial to the left,(Towards you on a forward facing machine or counter clockwise on a side facing machine).                                                                                                                                                                       I adjust the dial in quarter turn increments until I am satisfied with the stitching.                                          Remember once again, Righty Tighty / Lefty Loosy. 


7) The Issue of Pin Pricking                                                                                                                                  Little dots of the top thread showing on the bottom of your quilt, (or the bottom thread showing on top) are called Pin Pricking.
This is not a tension problem but rather your mid arm machine making a good balanced stitch.
Pin Pricking is made more obvious when we use different colored threads in the needle and bobbin.                         
As machine quilters we can minimize the problem of pin pricking by changing the balance of our machine tension to hide the pin pricking inside the batting, using a thicker batting, using the same thread or thread color top and bottom, replacing one or both of the threads with monofilament thread and using the smallest needle possible for the top thread.
A small needle will create a small hole.                        A small needle hole allows less of the top and bottom thread to pass through to the other side and as a result will lessen the amount of pin pricking.      

                                                                           
8)Top and bottom thread can be different providing their strength is similar.

Pairing natural fibre with natural fibre and man-made with man-made will make it easier to adjust your tension especially when you are learning.                   Once comfortable with your machine you can break this rule.
Many thread manufacturers have information available on their web sites as to help you choose the best thread combinations,(top and bottom) and needle size. 


9) Always do a test sample to check thread tensions before you start and each time you change your bobbin or threading.

I use the same fabric, batting and thread as my project and the design to be stitched when performing a tension test on my machine.


    10)  Parcel the weight of your quilt inward keeping as much of the quilt on the table as possible.

This is the opposite of how we handle a quilt on a standard bed machine and one of the nicest things about a mid-arm.                                                            Keeping the weight of the quilt up on the table takes most of the stress off of our bodies.

11)  Be sure to use the correct foot (as suggested by your machine manufacturer) when doing ruler work.       
                                                                                         Use only rulers or templates that are made for use on mid-arm quilting machines.
   
12) Be sure to oil your machine according to the manufacturer instructions.
Not oiling your machine will cause the machine to stitch poorly, become noisy and can cause damage to the machine.
Just like your car…..a well-oiled machine                     is a "HAPPY" machine!


Some Common Issues and                       What to Look For

 Breaking threads can be caused by;
*Incorrect tension adjustment.
*Machine not threaded properly.
*The wrong needle size or type for your chosen thread.
*Needle too small for the thread.
* Needle not in correctly.
*Moving hands too quickly or jerky hand movement.
*Incorrect pairing of top and bottom threads.
  (One much stronger than the other.)
*Thread looped around spool pin.
*Burr on bobbin case or needle plate

 Skipped stitches can be caused by;
*Wrong size or dull needle.
*Hopping foot adjusted too high.

Poor tension can be caused by;
*Top thread not in tension disc.
*Lint in top tension disc.
*Lint in tension disc of bobbin case.
*Machine not threaded properly.
*Side tension lever not down (side facing machines).
*Machine needs oiling.
*Faulty or dull needle.
*Needle not in correctly.
*Poor quality thread or wrong thread combination.
*A poorly wound bobbin.


HOT TIP
If you have tried everything else…

If having a problem with skipped stitches, try turning your needle ever so slightly from the 6:00 o’ clock position to 6:30.

If having a problem with shredded or breaking thread, try turning the needle to 5:30

Needle Size Conversion for Mid-Arm Machines                                                           Some manufacturers give the needle sizes in metric… this is what they mean.
MR 2.0 = Nm 70 = Size 10
MR 2.5 = Nm 75 = Size 11
MR 3.0 = Nm 90 = Size 14
MR 3.5 = Nm 100 = Size 16
MR 4.0 = Nm 110 = Size 18
MR 5.0 = Nm 130 = Size 21
MR 6.0 = Nm 140 = Size 22

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