1) Use a sharp
needle.
Some good choices
are;
Quilters 75/11 or 90/14,
Microtex 60/8, 70/10, 80/12 or 90/14, Jeans Denim 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, Embroidery
80/12 or 90/14 and Topstitch 80/12 or 90/14
The exception is
when quilting Silk or Satin fabric.
In this case a
Universal or Stretch needle will prevent pulled threads where the needle
penetrates the fabric.
2) The larger the
# the larger the needle.
3) Change you needle
every 6 to 8 hours for regular cotton, every two to four hours for batiks, metallic
fabric or very dense quilting. A
Gold/Titanium needle will stay sharp up to six times longer than a standard
needle.
(12 to 36 hours.)
4) Choose your quilting
design first, then your thread, then your needle.
The type and size
thread you use should be appropriate to how the quilt will be used as well as
the size and detail of the pattern you will be stitching.
For example, a
thick thread will not stitch small, detailed, free motion patterns as it is not
pliable enough to make small smooth curves.
Your needle needs
to be the correct size and type for your thread as well as the size pattern you
will be stitching.
5) With the
exception of mono-filament thread the smaller the # the larger the thread. For
instance a silk 100 (weight) is very fine while a 12 (weight) cotton is quite
heavy.
Good quality
mono-filament will be a .004. (denier)
6) Most straight
line quilting is done with a Walking Foot.
7) Curved or free motion
designs are done with a Darning Foot or sprung needle, usually with the feed
dogs down.
8) Use the correct
bobbin for your sewing machine as listed by the machine manufacturer.
9) Purchase a
separate bobbin case for your machine to help with tension adjustments. If you do not have a separate bobbin case, make your adjustments through
the top tension only. (This is so your machine can
still maintain stitch quality when working with side motion and decorative
stitches.)
10) If you have
eyelashing (loose threads) on the back then you need to increase the top
(needle) tension or decrease the bobbin tension. If
you have eyelashing on the front then need to decrease the top tension or
increase the bobbin tension.
11) Little dots of
the top thread showing on the bottom of your quilt (or the bottom thread
showing on top) are called Pin Pricking.
This is not a
tension problem but rather your sewing machine making a good balanced stitch. Pin Pricking is
made more obvious when we use different colored threads in the needle and
bobbin. As machine quilters we can minimize the problem of pin pricking by
changing the balance of our machine tension to hide the pin pricking inside the
batting, using a thicker batting, replacing one or both of the threads with
mono-filament thread and using the smallest needle possible for the top thread.
12) Using a single
hole needle plate also known as a straight stitch plate on your machine will
improve tension and reduce pin pricking. (Straight line stitching only.)
13) When quilting,
try to keep the weight of the quilt evenly distributed to allow the machine to
feed properly.
(A drop-in table where
the machine sits flush with the bed of the table is ideal for quilting.)
14) Using an
extension table on your machine provides extra support for better stitch
quality and more control.
These are
wonderful for taking to class and when you do not have access to a drop-in
table.
15) A Teflon Sheet
that adheres to the bed of your sewing machine or extension table makes your
fabric move more easily. This will improve thread tension and reduce hand and
body fatigue.
16) Quilting
gloves help you to move your fabric when working with large, all over designs.
When working with
small or detailed designs working with your fingertips directly touching the
fabric will provide the ability to stitch more precise detail.
Greaseless hand
creams or quilters glue can help you move the fabric more easily in this case.
17) Always do a
test sample to check thread tensions before you start and each time you change
your bobbin or threading.
I use the same
fabric, batting and thread as my project and the design to be stitched when
performing a tension test on my machine.
18) Breaking
threads can be caused by;
*Incorrect tension
adjustment.
*Machine not
threaded properly.
*The wrong needle
size or type for your chosen thread.
*Needle too small
or not sharp enough to pierce fabric. (Especially densely woven.)
*Moving hands too
quickly or jerky hand movement.
*Incorrect pairing
of top and bottom threads.
(One
much stronger than the other.)
*Burr on bobbin
case or needle plate.
19) Skipped
stitches are caused by incorrect needle, dull needle or not enough foot
pressure.
20) Top and bottom
thread can be different providing their strength is similar.
Pairing natural fibre with natural fibre and
man made with man made will make it easier to adjust your tension.
For information on this and other classes contact me
at;
