Thread, Needle Combinations for Machine Quilting (Domestic Sewing Machine)

All threads listed can be paired with the same thread in the bobbin.

You can have different threads in the top and bobbin. Consider the fiber content, weight and strength of the two threads then run a test sandwich of the fabric and batting that is in your quilt to see if the two threads can be run together with a balanced tension and without breaking.

It is always easier to set the tension on your machine if you pair natural fiber to natural fiber and man made to man made.

All fine threads should be wound on the bobbin at slow speed

When winding monofilament onto your bobbin be sure to wind at a slow speed and only fill the bobbin half full.

This is because the thread has quite a bit of elasticity and over filling the bobbin can cause it to expand giving your machine very poor tension.

With the exception of monofilament thread the smaller the size # the thicker the thread,                 (i.e. 50 weight is finer than 40 weight).

Monofilament goes by thickness (denier) not weight.

Needle sizes are the opposite of thread sizes. The larger the size the larger the needle,                       (i.e. size 10 is smaller than size 12)

Needles have two size numbers. The first is European and the second is North American.             (For example 70/10).

*Please note;

 On some of the more highly computerized machines you may need to “increase” the top tension in places where we normally decrease or vice versa.

Most brand name threads have web sites that are full of tips on using their individual products.

Monofilament, (Polyester).  .004” (.1mm) in diameter (90 denier) 

Bobbin Thread; 40 Weight, 60 Weight or100 Weight Polyester or Monofilament.

Needle; Microtex Sharp  60/8, 70/10 or Jeans Denim 70/10.

Monofilament, (Nylon).  .004” (.1mm) in diameter (90 denier) 

Bobbin Thread, 60 Weight Cotton or  Monofilament.

Needle; Microtex Sharp 60/8, 70/10 or Jeans Denim 70/10.

Silk 100 Weight.

Bobbin Thread; 60 Weight Cotton or Silk.

Needle; Microtex Sharp 60/8

Cotton “Embroidery” 60 Weight.

Bobbin Thread; 60 Weight Cotton .

Needle; Microtex Sharp 60/8 or 70/10 or Quilters 75/11.

Cotton 50 Weight.

The standard thread for piecing, also beautiful for quilting. Now available in variegated.

Bobbin Thread;50 Weight Cotton.

Needle; Quilting 75/11 or 90/14.

Cotton 40 Weight;

Bobbin Thread; 50 Weight Cotton.

Needle; Jeans Denim 90/14 or Quilting 90/14.

30 Weight Cotton

Bobbin Thread; 50 Weight Cotton.

Needle; Topstitch 90/14 or 100/16

Lengthen stitch slightly.

12 Weight Cotton

Bobbin Thread; 50 Weight Cotton or 30 Weight Cotton

Needle; Topstitch 90/14 or 100/16.

Lengthen stitch slightly. Drop top tension.

Rayon 40 Weight.

Bobbin Thread; 60 Weight Cotton or Rayon.

Needle; Microtex Sharp 60/8, 70/10, Embroidery 75/11 or Quilters 75/11.

Metallic.

Bobbin Thread; Monofilament or 100 Weight Polyester.

Needle; Metallica 80/12 or Quilters 75/11

Lengthen stitch slightly. May need to slightly drop top tension.

Ribbon Metallic.

Bobbin thread;    Monofilament or 100 Weight Polyester  

Needle; Metallica 80/12, Topstitch 80/12 or Microtex Sharp 70/10.

Lengthen  stitch slightly and drop top tension. (Usually to about 3)

40 Weight Trilobal  Polyester.

Bobbin Thread; 100 Weight Polyester or Trilobal.

Needle; Topstitch 90/14 or Quilters 90/14

Acrylic Embroidery 40 weight

Bobbin Thread; Acrylic

Needle; Microtex Sharp 60/8, 70/10 or Embroidery 80/12.

Jeans Stitch.

Bobbin; 50 weight cotton.

Needle; Topstitch 80/12 or 90/14

Lengthen stitch length. Drop top tension.

Please keep in mind these are possible thread / needle combinations.

Feel free to experiment especially if your machine is not “happy” with these suggestions.

Remember…There is no substitute for practice!

Don’t be afraid to try new threads, new stitch patterns, new thread/needle combinations. 

In other words give yourself permission to take time to “play”!

For information on this and other classes contact me at;

juliesquiltclass@telus.net

Quick Tips for Machine Quilting (Domestic Sewing Machine)

1) Use a sharp needle.

Some good choices are;

Quilters 75/11 or 90/14, Microtex 60/8, 70/10, 80/12 or 90/14, Jeans Denim 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, Embroidery 80/12 or 90/14 and Topstitch 80/12 or 90/14

The exception is when quilting Silk or Satin fabric.

In this case a Universal or Stretch needle will prevent pulled threads where the needle penetrates the fabric.

2) The larger the # the larger the needle.

3) Change you needle every 6 to 8 hours for regular cotton, every two to four hours for batiks, metallic fabric or very dense quilting.    A Gold/Titanium needle will stay sharp up to six times longer than a standard needle.         

(12 to 36 hours.)

4) Choose your quilting design first, then your thread, then your needle.

The type and size thread you use should be appropriate to how the quilt will be used as well as the size and detail of the pattern you will be stitching.

For example, a thick thread will not stitch small, detailed, free motion patterns as it is not pliable enough to make small smooth curves.

Your needle needs to be the correct size and type for your thread as well as the size pattern you will be stitching.

5) With the exception of mono-filament thread the smaller the # the larger the thread.         For instance a silk 100 (weight) is very fine while a 12 (weight) cotton is quite heavy.

Good quality mono-filament will be a .004. (denier)                                           

6) Most straight line quilting is done with a Walking Foot.

7) Curved or free motion designs are done with a Darning Foot or sprung needle, usually with the feed dogs down.

8) Use the correct bobbin for your sewing machine as listed by the machine manufacturer.

9) Purchase a separate bobbin case for your machine to help with tension adjustments.      If you do not have a separate bobbin case, make your adjustments through the top tension only.   (This is so your machine can still maintain stitch quality when working with side motion and decorative stitches.)

10) If you have eyelashing (loose threads) on the back then you need to increase the top (needle) tension or decrease the bobbin tension. If you have eyelashing on the front then need to decrease the top tension or increase the bobbin tension.

11) Little dots of the top thread showing on the bottom of your quilt (or the bottom thread showing on top) are called Pin Pricking.

This is not a tension problem but rather your sewing machine making a good balanced stitch. Pin Pricking is made more obvious when we use different colored threads in the needle and bobbin. As machine quilters we can minimize the problem of pin pricking by changing the balance of our machine tension to hide the pin pricking inside the batting, using a thicker batting, replacing one or both of the threads with mono-filament thread and using the smallest needle possible for the top thread.

12) Using a single hole needle plate also known as a straight stitch plate on your machine will improve tension and reduce pin pricking. (Straight line stitching only.)

13) When quilting, try to keep the weight of the quilt evenly distributed to allow the machine to feed properly.

(A drop-in table where the machine sits flush with the bed of the table is ideal for quilting.)

14) Using an extension table on your machine provides extra support for better stitch quality and more control.

These are wonderful for taking to class and when you do not have access to a drop-in table.  

15) A Teflon Sheet that adheres to the bed of your sewing machine or extension table makes your fabric move more easily. This will improve thread tension and reduce hand and body fatigue. 

16) Quilting gloves help you to move your fabric when working with large, all over designs.

When working with small or detailed designs working with your fingertips directly touching the fabric will provide the ability to stitch more precise detail.

Greaseless hand creams or quilters glue can help you move the fabric more easily in this case.   

17) Always do a test sample to check thread tensions before you start and each time you change your bobbin or threading.

I use the same fabric, batting and thread as my project and the design to be stitched when performing a tension test on my machine.

18) Breaking threads can be caused by;

*Incorrect tension adjustment.

*Machine not threaded properly.

*The wrong needle size or type for your chosen thread.

*Needle too small or not sharp enough to pierce fabric. (Especially densely woven.)

*Moving hands too quickly or jerky hand movement.

*Incorrect pairing of top and bottom threads.

  (One much stronger than the other.)  

*Burr on bobbin case or needle plate.  

19) Skipped stitches are caused by incorrect needle, dull needle or not enough foot pressure.

20) Top and bottom thread can be different providing their strength is similar. 

Pairing natural fibre with natural fibre and man made with man made will make it easier to adjust your tension.

For information on this and other classes contact me at;

juliesquiltclass@telus.net

Some Information About Sewing Machine Needles

Home Sewing Machine Needle

                                                                                                    When choosing your needle size and type you must consider the fabric that you will be sewing and the weight of thread that you are using and the technique you are doing. Needle choices will often be different for garment sewing, machine quilting and machine embroidery.

The point of the needle must be the correct shape to pierce the fabric easily without damaging the fibers.

The shaft must be thick enough to go through your fabric without bending but create the smallest hole possible.

(Too large a hole can cause the fabric to tear or wear more quickly and will allow the thread to slip back up through the hole. This will cause poor tension when sewing or pin pricking when machine quilting.)

The eye must be the correct size and shape to allow the thread to run smoothly without damaging it.

Too small an eye will cause abrasion to the thread causing it to shred and break.

Too large an eye will cause the thread to bounce in the eye of the needle also causing it to shred and break.

The groove down the front of your needle should be deep enough to allow your thread to ride smoothly inside to protect it from abrasion and give smooth stitching.

The scarf on the back allows the bobbin hook to loop your bobbin thread through the top thread to make a stitch. A needle that is too small or the wrong type can skip stitches because the scarf is not long or deep enough.

 Needle sizes range from 60/8 (smallest), to 120/20 (largest), the first number being the European size and the second number North American.

As a general rule the smaller the thread and /or the finer the fabric, the smaller the needle, the larger the thread and / or the heavier the fabric, the larger the needle.

Each type of needle has been made for a particular job and is named accordingly. They each have different attributes that should be considered along with your fabric, thread and the type of stitching when choosing your needle.

The correct needle for the fabric, thread and technique you are sewing has a huge impact on how your sewing machine can sew.

Good stitch quality and even stitching can only be achieved with the correct needle.

Change your needle often!!!!

The absolute maximum running time for a standard needle is eight hours under best conditions.

The thread you are using, the type of fabric you are sewing, the condition of your machine and how you sew all effect the wear on your needle.

 A worn needle may have a blunted point, a worn eye or a worn shaft.

A worn needle can cause broken or shredded thread, puckered fabric, damage to fabric, uneven stitching and skipped stitches.

I change my needle at the beginning of a new project or every six to eight hours for normal fabrics, every two to four hours for metallic or batik fabric.

The exception is a gold titanium needle.

Titanium is much harder than chrome or stainless steel and the gold coating makes the needle slide easily through your fabric. These needles can be run up to six times longer.

 You can tell that your needle needs changing by the way that your sewing machine is feeding and by the sound the needle makes when it pierces the fabric.

A dull needle or one with an incorrect point will make a “tucka tucka” sound as it goes through the fabric. Your machine can also feel as if the feed dogs are "slipping".

The right needle for the right job makes a world of difference to how well your sewing machine works !

My personal favorite needles and the technique` I use them for are:

For Piecing

An example of a block pieced with a dull needle

Points do not match properly 

                                                                                                           

 Quilting 75/11   For good quality stitching and easy matching of points.

Quilting 90/14  As above for heavier fabrics such as flannel.

Microtex 80/12   Very slim with a sharp point.

Ideal for precision piecing especially where many small seams are involved.

Jeans 70/10   A reinforced blade makes the denim needle less likely to bend or break when going over multiple seams.

Jeans 90/14   My favorite for sewing flannel quilts or Minkie. Eliminates skipped stitches and reduces the fabrics tendency to stretch.

This block was pieced with a sharp needle.

The points match well.

For Thread Painting

Topstitch and Jeans   80/12 , 90/14 

These needles have the strength to handle the motion of thread painting and protect delicate threads from abrasion as you build up layers of color and texture.

For Machine Quilting

Quilting 75/11, 90/14  

Gives a good quality stitch with a wide variety of threads.
The needle I use most often when stitching medium to large designs or straight line quilting.

Gold Titanium Quilting 75/11, 90/14

As above but glides through the fabric with less resistance.

Stays sharp up to six times longer.

Microtex 60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14

Very slim shaft reduces pin pricking.  Small eye for less thread bounce. A wide variety of sizes available for thread weights and types from 100 weight silk to 50 weight cotton.  60/8 is my favorite for Micro Stitching.

Embroidery 75/11/ Gold Titanium 75/11

Excellent for quilting with rayon thread. Has sharp point, small eye and has deep groove in blade to protect thread.

Jeans 70/10, 90/14

For threads that need a larger eye or fabrics that resist needle penetration such as batiks, flannels or metallic.

Topstitch 80/12, 90/14

For threads such as 12 and 30 weight cotton that require a large eye and very deep groove.

Metallic 80/12   Longer eye for use with metallic threads.

In Free Motion Quilting a small needle allows you to stitch a small design with smooth curves.

The smallest needle possible will help reduce pin pricking. A larger needle will help you stitch a larger design.

For Machine Embroidery 

Embroidery 75/11, 90/14

Sharp point, fine blade with deep protective groove to stop thread abrasion.

Gold Titanium 75/11, 90/14

As above, stays sharp up to six times longer.

Especially good quality stitches for dense embroidery or thread velvet.

Topstitch 80/12, 90/14

For stitching through sticky stabilizer, batting or dense embroideries.

Universal 80/12, 90/14

Prevents damage to fabric when embroidering on satin.

Microtex 70/10

Prevents damage to fabric when embroidering on fine silk.

For Garments and Home Decor

Universal 80/12

To have on hand for fabrics where the fiber content is not known or sewing satin.

Universal 90/14  For heavier fabrics of unknown fiber content. 

Microtex 60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14

Ideal for most light to medium weight fabrics.

Jeans Denim 70/10, 90/14, 100/16

Heavier blade for denim, chambray, coating and upholstery fabric.

Topstitch  80/12, 90/14

Large eye for topstitching and sewing with heavier threads.

Stretch  75/11, 90/14

Prevents skipped stitches on knits.

Jersey 80/12, 90/14

Ball point prevents damage to fine knit fabrics.

Specialty Needles

Twin Needles

Love them all for use in topstitching garments, quilting and decorative stitching.

Wing Needle

For heirloom sewing and household linens.

Also available as a twin needle. One needle will be a wing and the other is usually a universal.

Double Eye Needle

Wonderful fun! Allows you to run two colors of thread at the same time and maintain color separation. Ideal for machine quilting, thread painting and machine embroidery.

Triple Drill

Like a twin needle but has three needles on one shaft.

Remember…compared to the time we invest in our projects the cost of a correct, new needle is nothing.

Something as small as a needle will make all the difference in how easy to complete and professional looking your projects are.

Take the time to consider your needle choice at the beginning of each and every project and change your needle accordingly.

HAPPY SEWING!  

Needles, Needles, Needles is available as a Guild presentation. 

Contact me for information on this and other classes;  

Julie Plotniko   juliesquiltclass@telus.net