On This Page
Introduction to Free Motion Quilting - A Few Quick Tips
Standard Bed Machine
Perfect Balanced
Tension
What Every Quilter Wants
 |
| Perfect Balance Tension - What Every Quilter Wants |
Though not
difficult, even the most talented quilters can occasionally struggle with the
when, why and how of adjusting their machines tension to achieve the desired
results.
Let’s eliminate
the stress of poor tension so we can just have fun!
What Does a
Perfect Stitch Look Like?
• A perfect straight stitch on your sewing machine should be smooth and
flat on both the top and bottom.
• The stitches should be of an even length.
• The fabric should lay flat with no puckers.
%20A%20perfect%20balanced%20stitch%20-%20bottom.JPG "A perfect balanced machine straight stitch") |
| A Perfect Balanced Straight Stitch |
Prepare Your Sewing Machine for Success Construction
Choose your needle type to suite the fabric you are sewing.
For example, a Quilting 75/11 is my go-to needle for piecing standard cotton fabric.
Choose your needle size according to the thickness of your fabric and to accommodate the thread you are using.
If piecing flannel, I would normally use a Qulting or Jeans 90/14.
A thick thread requires a needle with a large eye and deep groove while a fine thread requires a needle with a smaller eye as well as a shallower groove and scarf.
Choose your thread type and weight to suite your fabric. A good rule to go by is natural thread for natural fabric man-made thread for man-made fabric.
Use a good quality thread of the same type,
brand and colour in both the needle and bobbin.
Use the correct sewing machine foot as suggested
in your owner’s manual.
Always use the correct bobbin as suggested by your
machine manufacturer.
Use a Straight Stitch plate when possible.
Clean your machine regularly, especially around
the bobbin area. Drop in bobbins
need to be removed for proper cleaning.
Consult your owner’s manual to see if your
machine needs oiling.
Have your machine serviced regularly by a
qualified service technician.
%20A%20sewing%20machine%20set%20for%20succssful%20quilting.jpeg "Sewing machine ready to sew the binding on a quilt") |
| Prepare Your Machine for Success |
Understanding the Importance of
Your Sewing Machine Needle
The lighter the fabric, the smaller the needle.
The heavier the fabric (or more layers) the larger the needle.
Needles have two size numbers listed on the package such as 75/11.
They both refer to the thickness of the needle.
In this example 75 is European and 11 is American.
A European needle size 100 (American 16) is 1mm in diameter.
Therefore, a size 90/14 would be .9mm in diameter.
The smaller the # the smaller the needle.
The Long Groove must be deep enough to protect your thread from rubbing against the needle or fabric as it prepares to make a stitch.
The eye needs to be large enough to allow the thread to run smoothly through it but not so large that the thread will bounce around.
The Scarf on the back of the needle just above the eye, must be deep enough to allow the hook on your machine to catch the thread when the needle comes down.
Use the correct class needle and brand as suggested by your sewing machine manufacturer.
For instance, most home sewing machine needles are class H (Home)
Change your needle often!
The average life span of a needle is eight hours of sewing time. If you are sewing batik or other densely woven fabric you will want to change it more often.
A dull, bent or needle that is the wrong type or too small will cause poor quality stitches and / or skipped stitches.
 |
| Anatomy of a Sewing Machine Needle |
How a Sewing Machine Makes a Stitch
All the components of your sewing machine need
to work together in order for it to make a good quality stitch.
If the needle can’t penetrate your fabric
cleanly because it is dull, bent or is the wrong type then the hook will not be
able to grab the top thread as it goes by.
If the thread doesn’t fit in the Scarf of the
needle, then the machines hook will miss it.
If the bobbin is not the one made for your
machine or if it is not in correctly then the bottom thread will be out of
position and the top thread won’t be able to grab it properly.
Our sewing machines really are quite amazing!
 |
| How A Sewing Machine Makes A Stitch |
A Little Bit About Thread
Thread, like fabric is like “candy” to quilters.
Thread is made from a multitude of fibers, both
man made and natural.
The vast majority of threads can be run through our sewing machines.
Most threads that are too heavy to run through the needle can be wound onto the bobbin.
The item would then be quilted upside down.
(Do not use coated or waxed hand
quilting threads as they will damage your machine.)
The general rule for construction and piecing is to match the fiber content of your thread to the fiber content of your fabric.
In other words, use
man made thread for man made fabric and natural fiber thread with natural fiber
fabric.
We measure threads in weight, ply (the number of strands of fiber twisted together to make th
e thread) and denier (a method of measuring the fineness of fiber. One gram for 9000 meters would be 100 denier.
Weight should only be used to compare threads of the same fiber content i.e. cotton to cotton, rayon to rayon
My favorite thread for piecing is 2 or 3 ply 50 weight cotton with the same thread in the needle and bobbin.
I use a wide variety of threads for quilting with a Walking Foot, Ruler Quilting and Free Motion Quilting.
For these techniques the needle and bobbin threads can be different.
 |
| A Variety of Threads |
Some Common Problems That Occur and How to Fix Them
We are going to go through a series of common issues that occur.
Some are caused by incorrect machine set up.
Others require a tension adjustment.
All tension adjustments for standard stitching can be accomplished by using the top tension dial.
Learning how to spot problems and adjust your machines tension for a straight stitch will help you understand and correct similar issues when quilting with a Walking Foot, Ruler Quilting or Free Motion Quilting.
It is important to note that an issue can have
multiple possible causes.
Don’t allow yourself to be overwhelmed. Just take
it a step at a time.
Problem
Top stitching is very uneven.
Bottom
stitching is loose and could be easily pulled out. Loops of top thread are
showing on the bottom.
Solution Rethread machine. Check that needle is in
correctly and not damaged. Increase top tension.
%20Top%20thread%20too%20loose%20-%20bottom.JPG "Loops of top thread and loose bobbin thread are visible") |
| Loops of needle thread visible on bottom |
Problem
Fabric is puckering. Stitches are uneven. Bobbin thread pulling to the front.
Solution
Check that machine is threaded correctly. Make sure that top thread isn’t
catching on anything. Loosen top tension.
%20Top%20thread%20too%20tight%20-%20top.JPG "Top thread tension too tight creates ripples in the fabric") |
| Top Thread Tension Too Tight |
Problem
Skipped stitches
Causes can be, wrong needle for fabric type,
needle too small for fabric, dull needle, top tension too
tight.
Solution
Change to a new needle of the correct type and size (usually
larger), adjust top tension if needed.
%20Skipped%20Stitches.JPG "Skipped stitches can have several causes") |
| Skipped Stitches |
The top tension control is on your machine so that you can use it when you need to.
Many specialty techniques and / or specialty
threads benefit from an adjustment to your top tension.
Your owner’s manual will advise you on how to
adjust your top tension and what stitches require you to do so.
Many computerised machines make these
adjustments automatically when you select a fabric type, weight or stitch.
When adjusting, the higher the number the more tension is on the top thread.
Lower the number for less tension.
Consult your owners manual for how to
adjust the top tension on your machine.
Let’s Look at Walking
Foot Quilting
Now that we know what perfect, balanced tension
looks like and how to correct some common issues we can apply what we’ve
learned to quilting with a Walking Foot (Even Feed Foot).
A walking Foot is an attachment to our sewing
machine that meshes with the machines Feed Teeth (also known as Feed Dogs), to
evenly feed thick or slippery fabric.
We also use it to accurately stitch through the
top, batting and backing fabric of a quilt.
Though usually used for straight stitching you
can also use some of your machines simpler decorative stitches to quilt with a
Walking Foot.
Tension adjustments for Walking Foot Quilting will be the same as for standard stitching.
Be sure to test your tension with the same batting that will be in your quilt as well as the same needle and thread combination you are using.
%20A%20walking%20foot%20attached%20and%20ready%20for%20quilting.JPG "A walking foot attached and ready to quilt") |
| A Walking Foot Attached and Ready to Quilt |
What Every Quilter Wants!
It’s time to apply what we’ve learned so far to the art of
Free Motion Quilting.
When Free Motion Quilting the Feed Teeth of your machine are dropped or
covered, and a Darning Foot (Free Motion Quilting Foot) is attached.
The sewing machine is no longer in control of the directionality of the fabric.
As a result, achieving balanced tension can be a little more
challenging.
When Free Motion Quilting, your sewing machine
is no longer in control of the directionality of the stitching or the stitch
length.
The speed with which you move your hands in
conjunction with the speed with which you run the machine are what
provides the stitch length.
The thickness and pliability of your thread
needs to be considered when creating your design.
A thick thread can’t stitch a short stitch
length and therefor can’t be used to stitch tiny curves.
A fine thread may not have the strength to
stitch a very large design.
We don’t always pair the same thread in the
needle and bobbin.
Cost, thickness, colour and softness on the skin
are just a few reasons why your choice of top and bottom thread might be
different.
When dealing with a heavy quilt or thick batting
you might consider going up a size in needle to reduce skipped stitches.
%20A%20variety%20of%20darning%20or%20free%20motion%20quilting%20feet.JPG "A selection of feet for Free Motion Quilting") |
| A Selection of Feet for Free Motion Quilting |
Each different Free Motion Quilting technique or design can require a different tension adjustment.
This is based on how you move your hands, the shape, size and density
of the design, the thickness and pliability of the thread and the size and type
of needle you are using.
Even the humidity becomes a factor as the amount of moisture content in
your thread can make it behave differently.
 |
| Different Free Motion Quilting Designs Can Require Different Tension Adjustments |
As with our regular stitching, tension adjustments for Free Motion Quilting on a Home Sewing Machine are usually done using the Top Thread Tension control.
You should not adjust the bobbin case that came with your machine as
the adjustments will adversely affect the quality of the built in stitches.
Many Home Sewing Machines now have a reduced tension or Specialty
Bobbin Case available for Free Motion Quilting.
If you are using one of these, you can adjust the bobbin tension as
needed.
Sit down, straight stitch only machines for Free Motion Quilting known
as Mid-Arms and Longarm machines have no Feed Dogs and no built-in stitches.
On these machines you adjust the bobbin tension first and then the top.
To adjust load the bobbin and place the bobbin case your palm.
Pull on
the thread to try and lift the bobbin case.
The bobbin case should stand upright in your hand but not lift off your
palm.
The small screw with the Halo around it is the one used to adjust the bobbin tension.
To adjust, hold the bobbin in place with the thumb of your left hand
and the adjustment screw facing up.
Turn right to tighten and left to loosen.
 |
| Tension Adjustment Screw On A Front Load Bobbin Case |
 |
| Tension adjustment Screw On A Top Load Bobbin Case |
The Issue of Eyelashes
One of the most common tension issues when Free Motion Quilting is what’s known as Eyelashes.
This refers to a series of looping threads on either the top or bottom
that have the appearance of well… eyelashes!
As with our straight stitching, if you are getting extreme Eyelashes
re-thread your machine and check that your bobbin is in the bobbin tension
disc.
If the Eyelashes are on the back then you will need to TIGHTEN the Top
thread.
If the Eyelashes are on the front then you’ll need to LOOSEN the Top
thread.
 |
| Eyelashes On Bottom - Top Tension Too Loose or Bottom Too Tight |
Pin Dots
When discussing how a straight stitch is formed we learned that a balanced stitch actually has dots of the top thread showing on the bottom and dots of the bottom thread showing on the top.
This is not however something we like to see when we are Free Motion Quilting!
You can try to eliminate the pin dots by making slight adjustments to your tension.
If the dots are on the bottom then you can slightly increase you top tension (or reduse the bobbin tension).
Reverse the process if the pin dots are on the top.
We are trying to hide the place where the threads lock together inside the batting.
If possible,
try a slightly smaller needle and /or switch to a thicker batting to give more room
for adjustment.
If you can’t
eliminate the Pin Dots try Monofilament (invisible) thread or go bold with the
same thread top and bottom!
Very slight
Pin Dots will disappear when the quilt is washed.
 |
| Pin Dots Can Be Eliminated with Careful Tension Adjustment |
The
Importance of Smooth Hand Movement
Smooth hand
movement is the final key to Perfect Balanced Tension especially when engaging
in any form of Free Motion Quilting.
Try to relax and just have FUN!
 |
| Smooth Hand Movements are Important to Good Tension |
Some
Products to Help You Achieve Perfect Balance Tension
Good quality
Sewing Machine Needles
A Straight
Stitch Plate for your machine (if available).
Good quality
thread. Your machine will stay cleaner, run better and thank you!
The correct
bobbins as suggested by your sewing machine manufacturer.
An extension
table or full-sized sewing table will do wonders for your ability to handle a
quilt during both the piecing and quilting process.
Quilting
Gloves will help you keep your hands relaxed and grip the fabric to move your
quilt with ease.
A stick-on
glide sheet that attaches to your extension table or the bed of your sewing
machine (there are several brands available) to help the fabric move more
smoothly (Ruler Quilting and Free Motion Quilting)
Good quality
batting. There are many types of beautiful batting to choose from.
Last but
definitely not least, the best quality fabric you have access to for your quilt
tops, quilt backings, home décor, garments and other projects.
 |
| All The Elements Come Together to Create Perfect Balanced Tension |
A Shortlist of My Most Often Used Needles
For Piecing 75/11 Quilters, 80/12 Microtex
For Walking Foot Quilting and FMQ with Stencils 75/11 and 90/14 Quilters 90/14 Microtex
For Ruler Quilting and Thread Painting 80/12
and 90/14 Topstitch 90/14 Quilters
For Free Motion Quilting 75/11 and 90/14 Quilters, 60/8 70/10 and 80/12 Microtex, 80/12 and 90/14 Topstitch Occasionally Jeans 90/14
When Quilting Silks or Satins 75/11 Universal
For Quilting through Fusible Applique 80/12 and 90/14 Super Nonstick Universal
 |
| A Selection of Needles That Can be Used for Quilting |
Some Good Resources
Janome Sewing Machines - Know Your Needles
On This Blog
Some Information About Sewing Machine Needles
What Every Quilter Should Know About Batting
My Post on QUILTsocial
Perfect Pairings - needles and threads work together for successful quilting
This is the link to part one of a five part series.
Follow the prompts to read two through five. Click on the I Blog for QUILTsocial icon on the Home Page for even more of my imformative posts and Free Patterns.
For information on this and other classes contact me at;
The Magic of Thread Painting
Thread Painting
by machine is a Free Motion Quilting technique that uses the machines needle
and thread the way an artist would use a paintbrush.
Lines or layers
of stitching can be added to a base fabric (usually with batting and backing in
place) with or without applique` to give the appearance of brush strokes and
incredible, life like detail.
You can even
thread paint on tulle, chiffon or wash away stabilizer to create freestanding motifs
of thread alone.
Layer fabric
and batting as normal, thread paint a motif such as a butterfly or flower then
cut out and apply to a new background for a truly three-dimensional work of
art.
Use Thread
Painting to on its own to create incredible Art Quilts, to add detail to
machine applique` or even printed panel quilts.
Combine with
any technique` you like, there are no limits and there are no rules!
Some Tips
1) Very dense, localized stitching can cause the stitched area to pull in and the background around it to ripple. To prevent this you might consider stabilizing the piece by using a fusible interfacing.
For art pieces that will hang on a wall, Pellon Décor Bond is a firm, non-woven stabilizer that will add some body and stiffness but still be easy to stitch through. It is fusible on one side so for maximum effect I will usually iron this type of stabilizer to the wrong side of the background fabric.
To add some stability but still maintain a soft pliable feel to the
background a lightweight woven fusible interfacing such as Pellon Shape Flex
works well.
To allow the batting to add a little more puff, fuse the stabilizer to the backing fabric.
You may choose to work without any stabilizer if the piece is large and / or will receive an equal amount of stitching over the entire surface.
2) A flat batting such as Needlepunch or a Bonded Cotton is easier to work with when Thread Painting as a puffy bat can cause more distortion.
3) As Thread Painting is a Free Motion Quilting technique` you will need to use a Darning or Free Motion Quilting Foot. My favorite foot for Thread Painting is usually referred to as an Echo Quilting Foot. This foot has a wide circular base that helps hold the fabric sandwich flat as you build up the layers of stitching, is clear for good visibility and has a wide opening to accommodate the Zig Zag stitch. If this foot is not available for your sewing machine then any clear or open toe Free Motion Quilting foot with room to move the needle from side to side can be used.
 |
| An Echo Quilting Foot for Free Motion Quilting |
 |
| A Free Motion Quilting Foot |
NOTE If you have a straight stitch only machine then the wide opening for your foot is not necessary.
4) The process of Thread Painting through multiple layers of fabric, batting, thread and stabilizer can result in skipped stitches, broken threads and even broken needles. To prevent these issues I like to use an 80/12 or 90/14 Topstitch Needle. Topstitch Needles have a sturdy shaft with a deep groove on the front to protect the thread and an extra long eye which makes the thread run smoothly even when stitching with multiple threads through the needle at the same time.
If you are working with multiple
layers of fusible web or other products that tend to gum up your needle then the
SCHMETZ Super Nonstick Universal Needle size 80/12 or 90/14 is another good
choice.
For added fun and to add definition and some separation of colours to multiple threads try stitching with a SCHMETZ Double Eye Needle. Just like it sounds, this 80/12 Universal Needle has two eyes, one on top of the other.
5) The threads you choose are what brings your piece to life! Some add shimmer and shine while others have a matt appearance. Thicker threads and those without shine will add more visual weight while the thinner or shinier threads will appear lighter in visual weight. The colours you choose can do wonders to effect the mood of your piece.
Darker colour threads can create visual depth and shadow while lighter
colour threads create highlights.
Dark colours tend to visually recede while light colours seem to move
towards the viewer.
As a general rule I like to use multiple different types of thread within
a piece to create as much visual interest as possible.
Some of my favorites include;
40 weight Polyester This is a fine thread often used for machine embroidery. It has a lovely sheen, comes in a wide range of colours including neon brights, is strong and colourfast.
40 weight Trilobal Polyester Like standard 40 weight Polyester but consisting of multifaceted fibers for beautiful added sheen.
40 weight Rayon Similar in look and feel to 40 weight Polyester but with a softer sheen. Some colours will be slightly more earthy.
40 weight Rayon Metallic A rayon core wrapped with Metallic for pure glimmer and shine.
35 weight Rayon All of the properties of 40 weight Rayon in a slightly thicker thread.
50 weight Cotton Available in a wide variety of colours, perfect for quickly adding depth and detail when a shiny appearance is not desired.
40 weight Cotton Slightly heavier than 50 weight Cotton. Will add more visual weight.
30 and 35 weight Cotton Thicker still then 40 weight Cotton. Great for adding details to animal fur, flower stamens, stems, buildings etc.
12 weight Cotton The thickest thread that you will run through your needle it will also add the most visual weight. Wonderful for outlining as you will only need to make one pass.
All the above threads are available in solid, multicolor and variegated.
Including a variety will help you build visual depth and add the illusion of light refraction to your colour palette.
Flat (Slitted) Polyester Thread
This stunning thread is like a fine Holographic Polyester ribbon. Use it to add details to flowers, butterfly or dragonfly wings. If toned into the background fabric it can be lovely for the background quilting. Just be careful it doesn’t overpower your focal point.
6) When Thread Painting an art piece with a heavy build up of thread on the front I will usually use an 80 weight polyester thread to blend with my backing fabric in the bobbin (also available as pre-wound bobbins for most machines).
You could also use any of your lighter weight threads such as a 40 weight polyester or even change your bobbin to match the colour of the top thread for a double sided artwork.
When thread painting a quilt or panel I will usually use either a light weight cotton (60 weight) or a 40 weight polyester that blends in with my backing fabric in the bobbin.
Hot Tip
I often Thread Paint with two or even three threads through the needle at
one time. This is a sure-fire way to create wonderful visual texture and
dimension. Be sure to use a needle with a large enough eye to accommodate the
combined thickness of your threads. An upright spool stand is helpful to keep
the threads running smoothly.
 |
| Thread your needle with multiple threads for visual depth |
7) Basic thread painting can be accomplished with the use of a simple free motion straight stitch.
Dimension is added to straight line stitching by moving the piece back and forth multiple times while covering the same area.
A wonderful satin like texture can be created by stitching back and forth in a consistent direction while laying each new line of stitching next to the previously stitched line.
Move the fabric in any direction allowing the thread to overlap more in some areas than in others as you continue to build your design.
Long sweeping strokes will give a different visual texture than short concentrated stitching.
Layers of different color, type and thickness of threads help to give the impression of light and shadow while adding visual texture.
Move the fabric in a circular movement to create the impression of rocks, seeds, berries, bubbles and more. Tiny circles can even be used to create a skin like texture.
 |
| Create a variety of effects with a Free Motion Zag Zag |
To help create
a three-dimensional appearance stitch the areas that appear farthest away first
working visually forward in layers as you stitch.
Apply a soft stabilizer to the background fabric if desired
Layer and prepare your piece as you normally would with a background
fabric, thin batting and backing.
These only need to be a few inches larger than the completed motif.
Don’t be too thrifty here. You will need sufficient fabric to hold on to
while stitching.
When your thread painted design is almost completely stitched simply cut it out through all the layers close to your outermost stitching.
Position the thread painted motif on its final background sandwich and
complete the thread painting through all layers.
You can stitch the edges down with a slanted zig zag stitch, side motion
straight stitch, straight stitch outline or leave the edges free for a completely
three-dimensional effect.
 |
| A Thread Painted dragonfly on its final background |
10) To realistically create the appearance of light and shadow it is important to consider where and how strong the light source is.
For instance, if your subject is outside, is the sun in front, overhead or behind your subject? Are there additional focal points in the artwork that will affect how your light source behaves?
What time of day are you trying to portray?
Is your light source direct or filtered as through a forest or if indoors
a lamp shade?
I often use photographs to help me understand how the light effects my
subject.
Sketching with coloured pencils onto a line drawing of your subject will
help you preview the directionality, colour and density of your stitching and
give you a reference to work from.
 |
| A photo can help you determine where to add light and shadow |
 |
| Applique` and Thread Painted Rose |
Machine Quilting With Stencils
Quilting
Stencils are typically made from thin, flexible plastic with a design cut out
to allow for easy marking of even consistent lines.
They are available in every theme imaginable.
Border, corner, block and all over designs can be used individually or combined to create just the look you want.
They
are inexpensive and enable anyone to quilt complex looking designs on even the
most basic sewing machine with just a little marking and a standard Darning
Foot.
Though stencils
were originally used to mark designs for hand quilting they work beautifully
for machine quilting.
Some
traditional stencil designs will require backtracking, that is stitching over a
previous line to get to the next start point.
Others will
require that you start and stop in several places to complete the full design.
Designs know as continuous line quilting designs can be quilted in one pass.
There are even stencils to use for marking grids that can be quilted as is or used as touch points to create an endless number of free motion quilted patterns.
With just a
little practice the precision and versatility that stencils afford make them a
valuable design tool.
 |
| A Stencil used to mark continuous line machine quilting designs |
 |
| Mini Quilt with stencil design feather quilting |
1) Hold your stencil firmly in place when drawing your lines. If you have trouble holding the stencil steady, you can use painters tape to lightly secure the corners to keep them from moving. Remove the tape immediately after marking to avoid leaving any stick residue on your fabric. Don’t forget to peek at the end to make sure you have marked all the lines before you remove the stencil.
2) Use a marking tool that is clearly visible on your fabric. It is extremely difficult to quilt smooth even lines if you can not see them. As always, test your marking tool to be sure that it is easy to remove.
 |
| Quilters Pounce Pad and Stencil |
 |
| A Stencil Design marked for quilting |
4) If you were to cut a continuous line design out of template plastic, it would either just be full of holes or it would not be stable enough to use for marking. To prevent this from happening most quilting stencils will have bridges, small solid areas in between the slots. The bridges create a series of blank spaces in the lines as you transfer the design. Though you will learn to fill in the blanks as you stitch, I always find it easier to draw them in the first couple of times that I use a new stencil.
5) Though there are a few stencil designs such as straight-line grid designs that can be quilted with a Walking Foot, most designs are Free Motion Quilted. Use the Darning Foot that affords the best visibility possible for your sewing machine.
 |
| An open toe Darning Foot for good visibility |
6) Use an extension tray or a quilting table (the kind that your machine drops into to make it even with the table) to extend your sewing surface.
10) Go slow! Use your fingertips to guide the fabric. (Quilting gloves can help.) Follow the design with a fluid motion as if you were writing your name. Pretend that your fabric is a sheet of paper and keep it steady while you draw with the needle. Stop with the needle in the down position when you need to turn the fabric so that you can see the line. Rocking the fabric from side to side as you stitch will result in very wiggly lines instead of the smooth beautiful curves and straight lines that we want to see. Try to glide around the curves. Breath! Enjoy the process and all of the fabulous design possibilities of machine quilting with stencils.
No comments:
Post a Comment